Drive through Tasmanian history

The former convict settlement of Port Arthur is Tasmania’s most popular tourist attraction, but so much more history and heritage awaits on the island formerly known as Van Diemen’s Land. We’ve plotted a five-day itinerary to some of the best, including museums, graceful Georgian architecture and more UNESCO-listed convict sites.

From Spirit of Tasmania, drive about 95 kilometres south-east to the Brickendon heritage property – perhaps pausing in Deloraine, the first town on your journey that’s classified by the National Trust for its heritage streetscape. Brickendon and the adjoining Woolmers estate were established by the Archer brothers in the early 19th century. They’re now among 12 places that form the Australian Convict Sites World Heritage Property recognised by UNESCO.

Brickendon is still a working farm operated by a sixth generation of Archers, so you can discover heritage machinery and buildings among chickens, sheep and horses. This property’s garden is easy to miss, but well worth seeking out. Continue to Woolmers, whose main house is filled with art, furniture and homewares original to the home. Have lunch at the welcome centre’s restaurant overlooking an extensive rose garden.

From here it’s a short drive east to the Midland Highway, which follows the original road built between Launceston (just north of here) and Hobart in the early 19^th century. That fact, and the little time-capsule towns dotted along the way, is why it’s also known as the Heritage Highway. Consider pausing in places such as Campbell Town, but you’re coming back this way so no need to see all of these old-timey villages now.

Today’s final stop is Oatlands, about 100 kilometres south of Woolmers. One of the most notable Heritage Highway villages, it boasts Australia’s largest gathering of sandstone buildings in the Georgian architectural style. The 1837 mill will definitely catch your eye. It’s recently become the impressive Callington Mill Distillery complex’s centrepiece, so do a tour and tasting if you’re a whisky lover, before dinner at 1832 pub The Kentish.

Continue south, perhaps taking a tiny detour to Kempton, which was on the original Launceston-Hobart road but is now bypassed by the Midland Highway. From Oatlands it’s around 80 kilometres to Hobart, the second British settlement in Australia. It’s rich with history and heritage, especially around Battery Point, where you can walk among Georgian and Victoria architecture. Go your own way, step back in time with a Hobart Walking Tours expert, or treat yourself to a Heritage Horse Drawn Carriages guided tour – it’s a history-lover’s dream come true!

The horses can deliver you in style for high tea at Hadey’s Orient Hotel, but however you arrive this meal is an elegantly old-fashioned pleasure served in the heritage hotel’s light-filled atrium. If you prefer beer and hearty food, enjoy lunch – and a tour – at Australia’s oldest operating brewery. Established in 1824, the iconic Cascade Brewing Co recently opened a rustically stylish bar-restaurant.

Another of the UNESCO Australian Convict Sites is a short walk away. Between 1828 and 1856, 7000 women lived and worked at the Cascades Female Factory. Most of the original buildings were demolished long ago, but performances, audio guide and the new visitor centre reveal the harsh life these convicts endured here.

There’s more disturbing history at the 1830s Hobart Convict Penitentiary, where 40,000 male convicts did hard time. Explore solitary confinement cells, underground tunnels, a chapel, courtrooms and gallows. Do you dare stay after dark for the ghost tour? Cheer up over dinner, perhaps at one of Battery Point’s old pubs, or the Peacock and Jones restaurant in a heritage waterfront warehouse.

If you’ve never been to the Port Arthur Historic Site, today’s the day. On the Tasman Peninsula, approximately 90 kilometres from Hobart, this convict-era penal settlement is a place of picturesque ruins and solemn stories about 19th century crime and punishment. History comes alive with a state-of-the-art interactive gallery at the visitor centre, where you can also enjoy lunch with heritage views at the restaurant.

No surprise Port Arthur is among the UNESCO Australian Convict Sites, but did you know another is just up the road? Nestled beside a beautiful bay, the Coal Mines Historic Site’s peaceful ruins reveal a dark past.

Already explored the Tasman Peninsula’s convict heritage? Spend the day on Maria Island, a national park where nature and history are equally fascinating. It’s about 85 kilometres from Hobart to Triabunna, where a regular passenger ferry heads to this island with no cars, shops or eateries – so come prepared with a picnic and sense of adventure.

Darlington Probation Station, which is yet another of the UNESCO convict sites, was established on Maria Island in 1825. Many of the buildings from this period still stand, near where the ferry docks, while ruins of post-convict era enterprises including farms and an Italian entrepreneur’s hotel and winery are also dotted around the island.

Overnight back in Hobart.

Spend the morning discovering more of the capital’s heritage treasures, perhaps at the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery. Permanent exhibitions at Australia’s second-oldest museum include ningina tunapri, which explores Tasmanian Aboriginal cultures, and the Thylacine gallery, which reveals the Tasmanian Tiger’s tragic demise.

Smaller institutions well worth visiting include the Maritime Museum, where Tassie’s seafaring history, from convict ships to Antarctic voyages, is revealed. Dive deeper into that Antarctic heritage at Mawson's Huts Replica Museum, or admire centuries of elegant furniture, ceramics, silverware, glass and more at Allport Library and Museum of Fine Art.

From Hobart drive 25 kilometres north-east to Richmond. Stroll among more Georgian architecture here, including Richmond Gaol, which offers daily tours, and Richmond Bridge. Built in 1823-5, it’s one of Australia’s oldest and most picturesque. At the Old Hobart Town model village, take tiny steps back in time to the colony’s early years. Meals in Richmond often come with a generous side of history. Consider lunch at the Richmond Arms Hotel, which was established in 1827, and dinner in style at Prospect House, built soon after.

Continue north and before long you’ll be on the Midland Highway again. Another of this route’s heritage towns is Ross (90 kilometres from Richmond), where you will find another impressive old stone bridge, and lunch at Ross Village Bakery. Their 1860s wood-fired oven is still producing delicious pies, pasties and sweet treats.

Around 60 kilometres from Ross, near the original Launceston-Hobart road’s northern end, is one of Australia’s most impressive heritage homes open to the public. Built in 1838, Clarendon’s Georgian facade of towering columns leads to beautiful period rooms, plus there’s seven pleasant hectares for this trip’s final stroll through Tasmania’s past.

From here it’s about 120 kilometres to Devonport and Spirit of Tasmania.

Information included in this blog is correct at the time of publishing. Please contact individual operators for further information.